Ok, here goes with another mammoth blog! My apologies, but we didn’t have the laptop with us all last week, and even if we did I couldn’t have sent anything anyway! We saw about three other groups of cars for the whole time we were out last week, so it was pretty remote stuff. Some beautiful scenery and waterholes (some not so full of water), and we got our fair share of exercise for the week scrambling up mountains and over rocks for hours at a time. We’ve had a great week!
Friday 21st
Left Newman after dropping Jack off at the boarding kennel. First stop was Kumarina roadhouse, where they had the biggest homemade sausage rolls I have ever seen! We all hoed in to one each, but mine made another appearance a couple of hours later which wasn’t so pleasant. Anyway, we headed offroad straight after that, through a property (thanks gate girl!) and after awhile found the abandoned drill rig and windmill (see pics). After another little drive, we came to Beyondie Station, abandoned for quite awhile by the looks of it. There were a couple of wells we were supposed to have made it to on the way there, but that wasn’t to be. After a bit of not really knowing if we were headed in the right direction (there’s what looks like mining tracks all over the place that intersect with the actual roads, all a bit confusing), we decided to camp for the night at a T-intersection of the track we were on.
Saturday 22nd
Little did we know we were camped about a k up the track from Waterfall Rockhole, which we promptly found the next morning. Looked like it usually has a fair bit of water in it (from the marks on the rocks, and also from the article Craig and Dale had), but there wasn’t much when we were there. We spent about an hour there, the boys climbed all the way up and over the top of the rocks, while Dale and I checked out the Aboriginal art on the walls of a cave, a bit higher up than the water.
We left there after all our exploring, and headed straight to Virgin Spring. Since we were there so early in the day, we had a bit of a look around before deciding to stay there for a couple of nights. The articles that Craig and Dale had said that there was hundreds of aboriginal rock art around the water course, but on our first quick trip we had only found a couple of bits. After we got the camp set up and had some lunch, we went for another look, this time walking straight up the water course (there was only a trickle of water over the rocks, so they were a bit slippery!). It was like we’d been walking around with our eyes closed the first time, cause we ended up finding art almost everywhere we looked on the second mission, so we felt a bit better after that. We cooked up a big roast for dinner (it’s a hard life…), and I think we had one of our later nights and didn’t go to bed until 9! Big night in the bush!
Sunday 23rd
Had a later start, then checked out a bit more of the spring. We climbed up to some rock pools, and Craig and Matt (the crazy buggers!) had a swim in the biggest rock pool we saw all day, but it was bloody freezing! We climbed up a bit higher after that, then Dale turned back and the three of us climbed right up to the top. We were standing there feeling like we were the last people on earth when we heard these voices coming up behind us, maybe not as isolated as we’d have thought. The guys turned out to be shooters, and were out looking for camels and emu’s (obviously not on the top of the mountain) to cull. Matt and I ended up almost driving through their camp later on that afternoon on our way out to Lake Kerrylyn, then they followed us out there and we could hear them firing at god knows what, we didn’t see anything at all while we were out there. Had an early night as we planned to get moving early the next morning.
Monday 24th
We left Virgin Spring at about 9, and moseyed on over to Talbot’s Waterhole. This was like a little oasis in the middle of the desert, it was picture-perfect! The boys swam again, while Dale and I had a bit of a wander and a look around. There was a bit more rock art here, and a couple of inscriptions as with Waterfall Rockhole and Virgin Spring. We ended up staying there for awhile, since the next campsite we were staying at wasn’t too far up the track. We got to Serpent’s Glen early afternoon-ish, set up camp and decided that we’d stay there for three nights so we could have a good look around, and also do some walking. Craig and Dale had a bit of a wander in the afternoon, then Matt and I climbed the rocky mountain that was directly above our campsite.
Tuesday 25th
After a bit of a sleep-in (I think it was about 8 before we all were up!) we headed up through the middle of Serpent’s Glen, and saw the rock bridge that Craig and Dale had discovered the day before. Matt and I ended up walking/climbing right through to the end of the valley/gorge, and walked back around to the front and met up with C & D who had found the aboriginal art. We were a bit suspicious about some of the art, it looked like it had been done too recently compared to the other art we’d seen over the last couple of days. Have a look at the pics and judge for yourself.
We had a lazy afternoon, just hanging out at the campsite, and I think we all nodded off during the afternoon. Had another roast for dinner. : )
Wednesday 26th
Got moving early-ish and went to check out Good Camp Rockhole, which probably was a great place to camp in the 1960’s when there’s no water around anywhere else! Matt and I reckoned that we’d almost walked right past it on our big walk the day before, it was that close to where we were camping! We then tackled M6, which was supposed to be a 2.5k round trip when you’re walking, but we drove further up a track we found and cut a fair bit of that off on the way up, thought it was pretty steep climbing and a bit hard-going. After a bit of a look around and a picnic on the top, Dale and I left the boys to go back the way we climbed up, and we took the more civilised (read: more gently sloping) route to the carpark where the boys were waiting for us for about an hour!
Thursday 27th
We packed up camp at Serpent’s Glen pretty early, so headed off straight away. We were trying to find an ochre pit just up the track from our camp that we’d seen the day before from the top of M6, but didn’t end up finding it. Our next stop was the Blue Hills abandoned station. That was really interesting, after walking around for a little while we found quite a bit of stuff that had been left behind when they left the station, by the looks of it. There was what looked like an old kitchen (outdoors, of course), the beams for a house, an old stockyard and fence, and a whole heap of tins that must have been where they dumped their rubbish. We had a look around there for quite a while before continuing on.
After an hour or more we finally made it to the Canning Stock Route, and went straight to have a look at well 5, since that’s the well we were closest to. As you’ll see in the picture, it’s been really nicely restored, and Craig and I wound up a bucket of what would pass for drinking water after a boil. The other wells were a bit disappointing after seeing well 5, because none of them have been looked after, or restored like this one has (none of them on that end of the stock route, anyway). The next well was 4B, pretty shabby, then we headed on to Windich Springs for lunch. That was probably the most amount of water we’d seen the whole time, so we all jumped in, then quickly back out again, it was a bit fresh! Onwards to another couple of wells, then we found my furry red trees at well 3. I finally found out what they were, thanks to the plaque! By this stage, it was early afternoon, and by the time we made a quick stop in at well 2 (it was a really quick stop since there were two sheep carcasses in the well!), we made a beeline for Wiluna, thinking that we might just get a room each at the pub for the night.
And then we actually got to Wiluna and very quickly changed our minds… On our first drive past the (one and only) pub, all the windows were barred up and it looked like it was closed. We thought that was a bit strange for a Thursday night, so ended up heading to the police station to ask there. The dude Matt and Craig spoke to assured us that the pub would be open, we just had to go around the back through the gates though, and knock on the door if it looked closed. Apparently it was pension day, and they don’t like to have to pub looking to inviting, or do over-the-counter take-aways because the (indigenous) locals like to indulge on payday (surprise, surprise). We were a bit hesitant, but were hungry, so ventured around the back of the pub, which looked like it should have been the front, cause that’s where everyone was! We got A drink at the bar, ordered, ate then left straight away. The boys actually went to wash their hands in the bathrooms, but there were no sinks in there, and god only knows what smeared all over the floors. They highly recommended that Dale and I didn’t go to the toilets there, who knows what state they might have been in…
So, we ended up driving pretty much straight back to Newman, and ended up getting back here at about 1:30 in the morning. Matt and I crawled into the caravan, and Craig and Dale rolled their mattress out in the back of our car, and we all slept through the sun coming up, as well as all the mine vehicles in the carpark around us leaving for the morning. Tired much!
And that was our trip to the Carnarvon Ranges and Canning Stock Route. I’m sure there’s probably bits and pieces I’ve left out since I’m trying to remember this all now, but I reckon there’s enough there to give you a fair idea of what went on. It was a pretty cool week, fairly easy-going (apart from the last day!), and just good fun. It was very nice to have a decent shower and scrub after the week away though… : )